Gold Studs Earrings

A stud is the most-worn earring there is, and the reason is geometry: it sits flat against the lobe with almost nothing standing clear of it. It goes under a helmet, through a night's sleep, past a scarf and through a jumper being pulled off without objecting. That is why studs are the pair most people put in and simply leave.

Because they are worn that way, scale matters more than it does on an occasion earring. Studs are measured in millimetres across, and the numbers are smaller than most people picture: three to four millimetres is a discreet everyday stud, five to six reads clearly at conversational distance, and eight and above is a deliberate statement. Holding a ruler at the stated figure beats judging from a photograph, which has no scale.

The back is the other decision, and it is the one that determines whether the pair is still a pair in a year. A friction back grips the post and is quick to use, but it loosens with time and is the single most common reason a stud goes missing. A screw back threads onto a matching post and cannot simply work loose, which is why it is preferred for earrings worn continuously and for children.

Design ranges from a single stone through halo and cluster arrangements to plain gold balls and small motifs. Stones vary by piece - each listing names what is set - and gold colour runs across yellow, white and two-tone.

Reading stud size in millimetres

Studs are described by their diameter across the front, and the figures are consistently smaller than people expect from a photograph. Three to four millimetres is a fine everyday stud that reads as a point of light rather than an object. Five to six millimetres is clearly visible at conversational distance and is the most common choice for a first good pair. Eight millimetres and above occupies the lobe and reads as deliberate. Mark the stated figure on a ruler and hold it to your ear before deciding.

Screw backs, friction backs and locking backs

A friction or butterfly back grips the post by tension. It is quick, it is the standard fitting, and it loosens gradually with handling - which is why it accounts for most lost studs. A screw back has a threaded post and a back that winds onto it, so it cannot work loose on its own; it takes longer to put on and is the sensible choice for earrings worn continuously. Locking backs sit between the two, clipping positively onto a grooved post. For a pair that will rarely come out, the back deserves as much thought as the front.

Sleeping in studs, and what that asks of a design

A great many people sleep in their studs, and a stud is the only earring style that really permits it. What makes a design suitable is a low profile, a smooth outline without sharp points, and a back that will not work loose against a pillow. Flat-backed fittings, where the back is a smooth disc rather than a butterfly, are the most comfortable for this and the least likely to press into the skin. Any design with a raised setting or a pointed stone is better taken out at night.

Second and third piercings

Studs are the natural choice for a second or third lobe piercing, because several small studs sit together in a way hoops and drops cannot. The usual approach is a graduated one: the largest stud in the first hole and progressively smaller ones above it, which reads as deliberate rather than accidental. Mixing metals across a set of piercings is entirely conventional now, and a two-tone piece somewhere in the group ties a mixed set together.

Matching a pair, and what the stones do

Two studs sit either side of a face and get compared constantly, so the stones want to agree in size, colour and cut in a way that matters less on a single-stone ring. Stones vary across this range - each listing names what is set - and manufactured stones such as cubic zirconia are consistent by nature, which is part of why they are so widely used in studs. Where a natural stone is used, matching is genuine selection work.

Cleaning, which studs need more than most pieces

Studs collect more residue than any other jewelry, because they sit against skin behind the ear where hair products, cleanser and the skin's own oils all reach them, and because they are often left in for weeks. Clean the front, the post and the back with warm water, a little mild soap and a soft brush, then rinse thoroughly. Put earrings in after hairspray and perfume. Check friction backs periodically for grip, and store pairs together.